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Visting Cusco Peru

 

One of the most exciting trips is to the Sacred Valley of Southeastern Peru and it all starts in Cusco Peru.  In this area of South America, Incan ruins meet majestic mountains and breathtaking valleys.  This area also offers the photographer with a rich choice of landscapes, ruins, and human interests.

Arriving in Cusco Peru

Most people arrive in Cusco by way of aircraft.  The airport in Cusco, Alejandro Velasco Astete International Airport and is located on the edge of Cusco.

Upon arrival in Cusco Peru, be sure to take it easy and not overexert yourself.  The altitude in Cusco Peru is around 11,200 ft (3,400 m) and it is very easy to get altitude sickness or Soroche.  If you feel winded, dizzy or sick; sit down and take a rest.  Be sure to drink plenty of water and take it easy until you are acclimated to the altitude.

When you arrive at your hotel, more than likely you will be offered Mate de Coca, or Coca Tea.  Tea made from the leaves of the Coca plant will help to alleviate the symptoms of soroche.  Other prescription drugs, such as Acetazolamide (Diamox) are useful for dealing with soroche.

Plaza De Armas

Upon arrival in Cusco, most people will want to make a bee-line to the Plaza de Armas; Cusco’s main square.

A taxi ride from the airport to the Plaza de Armas should run about 10 soles.  Be sure that you are not being taken advantage of by paying more than around 10 – 15 soles.  Always look for a license sticker on the cab itself and if in doubt, ask someone inside the airport for help in finding a cab.  Also, be sure to always stow your luggage in the trunk of the cab and not with you in the back seat.

The Plaza de Armas is a large square that is surrounded by two large cathedrals and many restaurants and shops.  It is the historic area of Cusco as well as the architectural capitol of the Americas.

A visitor to the Plaza de Armas ca easily find a great meal at one of the many excellent Peruvian restaurants (as well as American “favorites” such as McDonald’s, KFC, and Starbucks, which we avoided).  If looking for Peruvian fast food, check out Bembos.

The Peruvian restaurants tended to be on the second floors of buildings with balconies overlooking the plaza.

For an authentic Peruvian meal, try the Lomo Saltado.  I tended to find that this is offered at most Peruvian restaurants that we went to and I loved it!

 

Additionally, many money changing establishments (Cambios) and places to book travel in the Sacred Valley are located in the Plaza de Armas.  There are also many stands available to get snacks and water.

The Plaza de Armas is the perfect place to establish your base of operations for your stay in Cusco.  Many hotels are located in the vicinity of the Plaza de Armas and make it very convenient to stay in this area.  With many attractions within walking distance in the Plaza de Armas, it is the perfect place to start from.  While in Cusco, we stayed at the Tierra Viva Hotel at the Plaza de Armas.  Below is a view from our balcony.

While in Cusco, it is not uncommon to see the rainbow flag being flown.  As opposed to its meaning in other parts of the world, the rainbow flag in Peru represents the city of Cusco and Inca heritage.

While in the Plaza de Armas, don’t be surprised when you are approached by youngsters wanting to shine your shoes or “starving artists” selling their paintings.  This young man pictured below was selling some sort of water repellant for the “lluvia” (rain).

You will also see many Peruvians dressed in traditional Andean clothing.  For the most part, these will be women and children.  Some of them will be carrying a lamb or will have a llama with them.  Do not photograph these people without first asking permission!  Most will gladly allow a photograph for a tip of a sole or two and will approach you for a photograph in many instances.

Cathedrals at the Plaza de Armas

In Cusco, there are many Catholic churches from the Spanish colonial era.  Two of the most prominent are the Cathedral de Santo Domingo and the Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus.

It is definitely worth your time to visit both of these cathedrals.  There is a small donation required to enter the church.

English interpreters or guides are also available for a small fee.  They are worth the cost because they point out and explain many of the features of the churches that are otherwise not obvious.

Unfortunately, photography is not allowed in any of the Catholic churches in the Plaza de Armas.

San Blas and Calle Loreto

A short walk from the Plaza de Armas is an area know as San Blas.  This is an old area of Cusco and is known for its narrow and steep  streets.

Along these streets are restaurants, deli’s, and art galleries.  This area of town is full of great places to photograph, both people and architecture provide great subjects.

Be sure to check out many of the art galleries located in the San Blas area.

During the walk from the Plaza de Armas to San Blas, be sure to make a detour to catch the famous 12 sided stone, a perfect example of Incan stonework.

Another interesting look at Incan stonework is available on Calle Loreto.  This narrow street, bounded by Incan stone walls is an excellent example of the skill of the Incan stoneworkers.  Additionally, shops are available in courtyards that flank Calle Loreto.

Sunday Markets in Cusco

In Peru, Sunday is the day to go to the market.  If in Cusco on Sunday, be sure to check out the Mercado Central de San Pedro.  Within this market, all types of traditional food (meats and produce) and other local goods are offered for sale.

 

 

Within the market, there is plenty of freshly prepared food available.  I was not brave enough to try anything here, but it seems like a very popular place.

In addition to clothing, spices, vegetables and other wares, it is possible to get some very interesting cuts of meat at the Mecado Central de San Pedro.

Festivals in Cusco

Be sure when planning your trip to check to see if there are any festivals happening while you are in Cusco.   Peruvians celebrate many festivals in public in Cusco and these festivals offer excellent photographic opportunities.  As with any time that you are photographing people, be sure to be respectful.

Sacsayhuaman and Christo Blanco

One of the places that you must see while in Cusco is Sacsayhuaman (Pronounced “Sack See Woman” or “Sexy Woman”).

Sacsayhuaman is a stonework fortress that is located above Cusco.  Although the structure is credited to the Incas, evidence shows that much of the structure was in existence prior to the rise of the Incan Empire.

Sacsayhuaman is a perfect example of how precise the Incas were with their stonework.  Many of the stones comprising Sacsayhuaman are so tightly fit together that a piece of paper cannot be inserted between them.

Sacsayhuaman is a short taxi ride from the Plaza de Armas and most taxi drivers will park and remain onsite while you tour the site.  There is a ticket (boleto) required to enter Sacsayhuaman as well as Puca Pucara and Taybombochay, both located near Sacsayhuaman.

While at Sacsayhuaman, there are other sites that show Incan culture.  Below is an alter used for sacrifice.

This ticket can be purchased in the Plaza de Armas or onsite at Sacsayhuaman.

While at Sacsayhuaman, be sure to get panorama shots of Cusco as well as shots of Christo Blanco (White Christ).  Christo Blanco is a large white statue of Jesus that is very similar to the Statue of Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janiero, however, it is not as large.

A short ten-minute walk from Sacsayhuaman is all that is needed to get to Christo Blanco.  While photographing Christo Blanco, be sure to take in the view of Cusco from this vantage point.  While in  Cusco, you will be able to see Christo Blanco quite clearly from its location on the hill.

I have read that it can be dangerous at Sacsayhuaman at night and in the early morning hours.  It is not recommended that you visit during this time of day.

Puca Pucarra and Taybombochay

A short ride from Sacsayhuaman, is Puca Puccara (Red Fortress in Quechua or “Red Red” according to the cab driver).  Puca Puccara was the entrance fort that the Incans used to control who entered Cusco.  From this spot, a picturesque view of the lower portion of the sacred valley gives the photographer the perfect place to get shots of the Peruvian countryside.

A short drive from Puca Pucarra (less than 5 minutes) is Tambomachay.

Tambomachay is an Incan site that contains baths, aqueducts, and canals.  Although not certain, it is thought that this place was used as a spa by the Incan elite.    Both Puca Pucarra and Tambomachay are a short ride from Sacsayhuaman and should be able to be seen in an afternoon’s time.

 

One word of warning which visiting Tambomachay; I got soroche (altitude sickness) while visiting this location.  Keep in mind that Tambomachy is even higher in altitude than Cusco.  If you start to experience the symptoms of altitude sickness, be sure to go to a lower elevation (back down to Cusco).

If you get winded or think that you are getting soroche, and don’t want to head back down to Cusco, simply sit down and take a rest.

To Hear More

If you are unfamiliar with podcasts, click on the “Listen Now” button located at the top of the post.  Here you can listen to me describe the trip in more detail.  If using an iPhone, iPad, or iPod, click on the icon located in the upper portion of the sidebar to subscribe to the podcast via iTunes.

**  All Photographs by Rob Higdon unless noted.  **

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